UNDERSTANDING ACNE
My favourite skin condition to manage - ACNE
Notice I said skin condition to ‘manage’ as acne cannot be cured (yes, even Accutane isn’t a ‘cure’ for acne) - however with professional help it can be controlled.
Acne is a common skin condition that is characterised by open and closed comedones, papules, pustules and cysts occurring on the face, and potentially on the back and chest. Acne is a genetically predisposed skin condition but also includes a wide variety of interrelated factors including hormones, diet and stress that can exacerbate the condition and make it difficult to treat.
Four Main Contributors of Acne:
Oil: hormones, stress, diet, puberty, lack of sleep are all factors that can cause your sebaceous (aka oil) glands to produce more oil. This can make the skin feel greasy - especially on your nose, chin and forehead. Oil is known as the ‘fuel to the fire’ when it comes to acne.
Follicular Hyperkeratinisation: This term sounds complicated but it simply means that skin cells in the follicle are not shedding properly which clogs the follicle. When the follicle becomes clogged, it prevents the sebum from being secreted and oil then becomes trapped in the pore and builds up. A species of bacteria called C. acnes bacteria accumulates and multiplies in the follicle, feeding off the trapped sebum.
C. acnes bacteria: the species of bacteria that lives in the follicle is called C.acnes bacteria - usually, it’s harmless. However, when the follicle is blocked, the bacteria starts to feed off the trapped oil. This causes the C.acnes bacteria to multiply which in turn causes an immune response and inflammation. This is usually the first sign of acne you can actually ‘see’ - i.e. you wake up with a pimple on your face!
Treating Acne:
When treating acne, the first priority is to reduce inflammation and ensure that the skin barrier is strong - this helps avoid the possibility of residual acne scarring and pigmentation, but it also preps the skin for the acne-focused active ingredients. When looking at active ingredients to control acne we need to remember the four main contributors of acne: oil, follicular hyperkeratinisation, bacteria and inflammation - interrupting this process is key at controlling acne! You will also need to determine your grade of acne, your skin type and if you have inflammatory or non-inflammatory acne (this is when it’s best to chat to a professional!)
When I help clients manage and control their acne I focus on 5 main things: oil control, reducing bacteria, promoting cellular turnover, reducing inflammation and ‘cushioning’ the skin. Whilst the 5 main points I focus on are the same - the ingredient from each will change depending on the client and the type of acne they are wanting to control.
Key ingredients to control oil: salicylic acid, sulfur, clay, tea tree, niacinamide, CBD, tea tree oil and charcoal.
Key ingredients to reduce bacteria: benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, oxygen, micro-silver, tea tree and azelaic acid.
Key ingredients to promote cellular turnover: AHA’s, BHA’s, retinoids and enzymes.
Key ingredients to reduce inflammation in the skin: green tea, aloe vera, niacinamide, liquorice extract, centella asiatica and chamomile.
Key ingredients to cushion the skin: ceramides, antioxidants, SPF, CBD, fatty acids, amino acids and peptides.
Acne is estimated to affect 9.4% of the global population, making it the eighth most prevalent disease worldwide. Whilst it might seem like the end of the world - it’s very common. But for many people who have acne, the skin disease affects more than their appearance - so don’t suffer in silence and chat to a professional if needed.
Remember - skin health is health!