USING RETINOIDS + EXFOLIANTS
Many people think that because they can see redness and peeling when using a retinoid that the skin cells are being lifted and swept away. Both retinoids and exfoliants increase cell turnover, however, it’s a common misconception that retinoids exfoliate the skin.
But what does that mean? What’s the difference between the two? And do you need to use both?
Cellular turnover describes the biological process of shedding dead skin cells and their replacement with fresh, new cells. Cells start out full of moisture in the stratum basal and as they mature, they are pushed up through the layers of the epidermis becoming flatter and drier until they reach the surface of the skin. By this point, the cells are nothing more than dry flakes of keratin waiting to be shed.
The longer the cell turnover cycle takes, the more dead cells are left to build up on the surface of the skin - giving a dull, dry and rough appearance.
It takes on average around 28 days for your little skin cell at the stratum basal to make its way to the stratum corneum and be shed. Lots of different factors can affect how quickly cell turnover happens such as diet, lifestyle, level of hydration - but age is the biggest factor. Babies have roughly a 14 day cellular turnover rate whereas someone who is 50 years old has between a 50-80 day turnover rate.
So how do retinoids and exfoliants help with cellular turnover?
Exfoliants work from the top-down. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the glue that holds dead skin cells to the surface so they can be sloughed away, whereas physical scrubs physically remove dead skin cells from the surface. Both types of exfoliants reveal new, radiant skin underneath and when the old cell is removed, a signal is sent deeper into the skin to encourage cells in the stratum basal to divide, ensuring cell turnover can continue.
Retinoids work from the bottom-up. They work by stimulating the cells in the stratum basal to divide more rapidly, which in turn pushes the ‘old’ cells up to the surface quicker, revealing more youthful skin.
But can you use both?
The short answer: yes.
Whilst both increase cellular turnover, they also have their own unique benefits that contribute to healthy skin.
Retinoids are actually antioxidants. They decrease melanin production, increase collagen and elastin production whilst protecting collagen and elastin that is already there - this thickens the dermis which plumps the skin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Exfoliants resurface the skin, lighten sunspots, minimise discolouration and even out skin texture and tone.
When you add both ingredients into your skincare routine, you will see cumulative benefits. However overusing them can lead to dryness, peeling and red skin - so caution is needed!
My top tips for pairing retinoids and exfoliants:
Alternate the nights you use each ingredient. For example use your exfoliant on Mondays and Thursdays and your retinoids on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Use a formulation that combines both retinoids and exfoliants in 1 product - this takes out the guesswork for you. The Shani Darden Retinol Reform Treatment Serum and the Jan Marini Retinol Plus Mask are personal favourites!
Stay vigilant with your SPF! Glycolic can make your skin more sensitive to the sun and retinol calms down your melanin production (which is your skins defence mechanism for UV rays!) so your skin cells need to be protected with SPF to prevent damage.
Go slow! If you’re new to using active ingredients in your skincare, take things nice and slow to reduce the chance of any irritation.
Consider booking a virtual consultation with a professional. A carefully considered routine, suited exactly to your skin type and condition will get you better results much quicker.
So do you need both ingredients?
As with everything in skincare - it depends!
But combining both ingredients is a great way to tackle a range of skin concerns and get some serious results.